In-Cosmetics Latin America 2019 presented trend-driven ingredient and formulation innovations, attracting leading suppliers of raw materials and personal care ingredients such as Beraca, Ashland, Givaudan, Sensient, Chemyunion, Croda and Ajinomoto. The event, which took place September 18 and 19 in São Paulo, welcomed 5,700 visitors, an annual increase of 18%, and 14% more exhibitors than last year, according to show organizers.

“The primary purpose is to provide tools for the industry to renew and reinvent itself each year. In order to reach the market, a revolutionary product firstly needs an innovative ingredient. So, it all starts here, with the gathering of the world’s largest suppliers,” observed Daniel Zanetti, exhibition director.

Innovation is at the heart of In-Cosmetics Latin America, which is why it hosts three of the biggest awards for ingredient manufacturers: Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award, Spotlight On Award and the ABIHPEC-ITEHPEC Innovation Award.

Solabia won the Gold award in the best ingredient category for its Prelliance active. Gattefossé took the Silver with Emulium Illustro and Symrise secured the Bronze with SymReboot L19.

The Spotlight On Award is for ingredients that meet the biggest trends. The Gold award went to Colormix Especialidades for its SunCare Apalight FPS 30. The Silver award went to LipoTrue for Anargy and IFF-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics won the bronze award for Skinectura.

The ABIHPEC-ITEHPEC Innovation Award, organized by the Brazilian Association of Toiletries, Perfumes and Cosmetics (ABIHPEC), also recognized three innovations. The Bronze award went to Hallstar for Micah, Chemyunion took Silver for Thermoshield Premium and the big winner was Bloomage Biotech, with microHA.

The new Innovation Tour led select attendees through some of the major new product launches on the show floor. The goal is to help formulators and developers understand ingredients applications and its advantages in addition to the innovation claims.

The sustainability theme was highlighted through the Green Trail which helped attendees stay abreast of natural ingredients and “clean” beauty trends. The trail included 94 exhibitors and Beraca was one of the busiest booths with the launch of the açai extract and a sensory experience where attendees could prepare their own facial serum and leave-in hair care formulas.

Beraca Seeks Balance

According to Érica Pereira, who is responsible for sustainability at Beraca, the company’s Sociobiodiversity Enhancement Program makes it is possible to balance respect for environment with respect for the local culture and forest. Beraca supports the communities that share their knowledge of the seeds, leaves and fruits they gather. Beraca’s education practices go beyond short-term economic issues to ensure the maintenance of ecological and social balance. The purpose is to change people’s lives in communities so that they develop an autonomy, according to Pereira.

The Beraca Institute is a non-profit organization that helps clients select the social or environmental projects that best suit their interests and goals and the local communities they wish to support. This program ensures full traceability of raw materials sourced from the Amazon rainforest and other Brazilian ecosystems, and guarantees profits will be given back to the community as well as encouraging socio-economic development and local environmental preservation activities.

During the In-Cosmetics, the company presented its pro-aging açai extract, produced from the fruit of the Amazon Region, which is harvested by local “extractivist” communities, thanks to Beraca’s  Socio-biodiversity Enhancement Program. Pereira explained that it is a new version of açai, one with more anthocyanins, so it is said to be more efficient against pollution, oxidation and glycation effects. The extract fits the pro-aging movement: aging with quality, satisfied with experiences and appearance in a healthy way. The ingredient is said to reduce wrinkles and boost skin radiance in addition to protecting and repairing against external aggressions.

Chemyunion showcased Sensoveil Soft, an emollient that is said to enhance hair’s sensorial properties in addition to improving combability, reducing frizz, preventing build-up and boosting shine and softness. According to Chemyunion, the material contains sunflower and avocado oil to hydrate hair and enables formulators to develop “free from silicones, lanolin and lanolin derivatives” claims. It is 100% biodegradable and China compliant.

Ashland presented CB2-skin, a biofunctional made from patchouli, that is a patented alternative to cannabidiol (CBD) oil for skin calming, soothing and graceful aging. According to the company, CB2-skin modulates the skin’s CB2 cannabinoid receptor better than hemp oil. The company´s premium patchouli is sourced from fully integrated and sustainable farms in Colombia. It is said to promote skin calming and comfort in addition to reducing irritation and itchiness. CB2-skin is ideal for sensitive skin applications and for use in “better for me” beauty products that feature beauty rituals, according to Ashland.

Givaudan Active Beauty’s Naturein Wheat Peptides are clean and sustainable alternatives to cationic guar, a key specific detangling ingredient for hair care. In side-by-side tests, Naturein proved to be more effective in smoothing and detangling hair. Givaudan says Naturein Wheat Peptides answer all consumer requests for a clean product that is good for them and the environment. According to the Clean and Natural Study 2019 conducted by Givaudan, 91% of consumers are interested in the concept of clean beauty for hair care.

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies is embracing the shift toward natural cosmetic ingredients by introducing a line of enhanced skin care extracts. Natpure Xfine is a range of pure vegetable extracts that provide a multitude of benefits to cosmetic formulations. Red beetroot, purple sweet potato, blue spirulina, yellow turmeric and red radish are the source of these powdered complexes that provide superfood benefits to the skin care routine.

Croda showcased natural and sustainable alternatives. For example, Crodabond CSA is a 100% natural polymer that provides benefits in hair applications.

Crodarom Banana Flower contains a lot of mucilages that have hydrating and prebiotic properties to help to protect the skin against external aggressions.

Finally, Ajinomoto proposed an “essential beauty” theme based on the simple and sustainable cosmetics trends. Its Aminoshampoo provides the benefits of amino acid-based surfactants. New efficacy data for its Amisoft and Amilite surfactants demonstrates their ability to remove pollution and oil, without causing build-up, dehydration or scalp damage. The amino acids used in Amilite and Amisoft lines are of plant origin and some of them are naturally certified such as Amisoft ECS-22 (Natrue)and Amisoft ECS-22W (Ecocert), according to the company.

Sustainability has come to the fore in the cosmetics and personal care industry; it is no longer a “nice to have” attribute, it is a requirement for entry.

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Daniela Ferreira
Correspondent
[email protected]
Mobile: 55-11-993880867

Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in both consumer and B2B cosmetic markets. At present she is master´s degree student in fashion program at São Paulo University (USP) with research project about fashion and fragrance and also including works presented at conferences. Her expertise comprises managing and launching products, communication planning and market studies for identifying new business opportunities. She also has a blog about perfume, its interactions and insights for the market (https://olfativo360.com.br/)